In recent years, consumer demand for natural, organic, cruelty free and vegan cosmetics has surged due to growing concerns about sustainability, health, and ethical sourcing. Standards and certifications are able to communicate these elements of cosmetic products to consumers. Consumers are increasingly choosing products that align with their values, leading to the rise of industry-wide standards to regulate and certify natural and organic claims.
Natural and Organic Standards for Cosmetics
Natural ingredients are derived from plants, animals, micro-organisms, or minerals using physical processes and natural solvents. Organic ingredients, on the other hand, originate from organic farming methods or wild harvesting, adhering to national laws and specific organic regulations.
Natural (WHAT)= Natural ingredients are obtained only from plants (including mushrooms and algae), animals, micro-organisms or minerals, including those obtained from these materials by physical processes and extraction using natural solvents.
Organic (HOW)= Organic ingredients originate from organic farming methods or wild harvesting, in compliance with national laws.
The Importance of Standards and Certifications
Without a unified standard, comparing products claiming to be “natural” or “organic” would be challenging. Industry standards provide credibility, ensuring consumers receive authentic products. Certifications and recognizable seals help build trust between brands and consumers, mitigating misleading claims and greenwashing.
ISO 16128-2:2017 Standard
ISO 16128-2:2017 offers guidelines for calculating natural and organic content in cosmetics. It provides a framework for determining natural, natural-origin, organic, and organic-origin ingredient percentages based on defined indexes.
The Natural Origin Calculation involves multiplying the concentration of natural origin ingredients by their respective natural indexes (ranging from 0 to 1). Products must contain at least 95% natural or organic ingredients to claim these classifications.
COSMOS Standards
COSMOS (COSMetic Organic and Natural Standard) is a globally recognized non-profit organization that harmonizes natural and organic certifications. Founded by BDIH (Germany), Cosmebio (France), Ecocert (France), ICEA (Italy), and the Soil Association (UK), COSMOS ensures that certification bodies follow uniform guidelines.
Certification bodies must comply with COSMOS requirements, be accredited under ISO 17065, and adhere to strict labeling and formulation criteria. COSMOS sets global benchmarks for natural and organic cosmetics, ensuring transparency and reliability in the industry.
Categories of Ingredients
Natural and organic cosmetics classify ingredients into five categories:
- Water – Essential raw material requiring high-quality standards.
- Mineral Ingredients – Non-renewable but necessary; require strict environmental regulations.
- Physically Processed Agro-Ingredients – Must adhere to organic agriculture standards.
- Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients – Must use organic raw materials and sustainable “Green Chemistry” processes.
- Other Ingredients – Includes transitional substances for which methods of currently physically or chemically processes have not yet been established.
Labeling and Certification
COSMOS has specific labeling requirements for products meeting its natural and organic criteria:
- COSMOS Natural: Requires labeling with the ‘COSMOS NATURAL’ seal and a statement of the percentage of natural-origin ingredients.
- COSMOS Organic: Requires the ‘COSMOS CERTIFIED’ seal, the certifying body’s name, and a clear indication of organic content percentage.
PETA’s Beauty Without Bunnies Certification
The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) offers their own standards and certifications: the Beauty Without Bunnies certification. This is one of the most widely recognized cruelty-free certifications. This certification ensures that a company does not conduct or commission animal testing at any stage of product development.
Requirements for Compliance:
- The brand must complete a statement of assurance, verifying that neither the company nor its suppliers test ingredients or final products on animals.
- A legally binding agreement must be signed, affirming a commitment to a cruelty-free policy.
- If a company is applying for the vegan label, it must also ensure that no animal-derived ingredients (such as beeswax, lanolin, or carmine) are used.
CFI's Leaping Bunny Certification
Cruelty-Free International’s Leaping Bunny certification is considered the gold standard for cruelty-free cosmetics. It provides the most rigorous certification process to ensure no animal testing is involved at any level of product development.
Requirements for Compliance:
- A strict fixed cut-off date must be established, after which no ingredients or finished products can be tested on animals.
- The brand must implement a supplier monitoring system to verify compliance with cruelty-free standards.
- Independent audits must be conducted to confirm that the company adheres to Leaping Bunny’s cruelty-free policies.
- The certification applies globally, meaning companies cannot sell in regions where animal testing is required by law (e.g., China’s pre-2021 policies, though regulations are evolving).
The Vegan Society Certification
The Vegan Society’s Vegan Trademark is a globally recognized certification that ensures a product is free from any animal-derived ingredients and has not been tested on animals.
Requirements for Compliance:
- Products must not contain any animal-derived ingredients, including honey, gelatin, keratin, or silk.
- No animal testing must be conducted on either the finished product or its ingredients.
- The manufacturing process must be free from cross-contamination with non-vegan ingredients.
- A company must provide detailed documentation of ingredient sourcing and processing methods.
