In this article about fragrance products, you will learn everything you need to know about fragrances in the cosmetics industry. You’ll find information about how fragrances actually work, their formulations, types of fragrances, their regulatory aspects and what claims can be made.
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Fundamentals of Fragrance Products
Fragrance products include any product which contains a fragrance element to change the sensory characteristics of cosmetic products. This fragrance component is added into cosmetic formulations in the oil phase, which is typically suspended in the continuous (aqueous) phase.
Fragrances are added into cosmetics to provide a pleasant consumer experience through its pleasant or augmented scent. Fragrance products can be categorised as either primary or secondary fragrance products. Primary fragrance products’ main purpose is to provide a desirable scent, these are your perfumes, eau de toilettes and body/hair mists. Secondary fragrance products contain a fragrance component, however, the product’s main purpose is not to provide a scent. These products include moisturisers, shaving creams, body/face washes, toners; anything that could contain a fragrance as an additional benefit.
Cosmetic manufacturers commonly use fragrances as masking agents. Some crude cosmetic formulations may not smell desirable fresh off the production line, so manufacturers add fragrances to mask the common ‘chemical’ smell of formulations.
Mechanism of Action of Fragrance Products
Fragrance components must remain stable within the product throughout its shelf life as a liquid, however, once it is applied to the body, the once liquid fragrance must change its state from liquid to gas for consumers to experience the scent. They are able to do this due to their physico-chemical characteristics including latent heat.
Fragrances contain a highly volatile oil phase which has a low latent heat of evaporation.
Specific latent heat of vaporisation/evaporation (L) is the heat required to convert a liquid to gas (vapour) without a change in temperature.
Specific Latent Heat
Materials will increase in temperature when heated (including heat from the body), but they stop increasing in temperature once they have enough energy to change state (from solid to liquid or liquid to gas). The energy supplied through heating is no longer used to increase the temperature of the material, instead, energy is used to break bonds between molecules – changing their physical state. This heat, where the material does not increase in temperature but changes state is the specific latent heat.
The equation for specific latent heat is given below, where L is specific latent heat.
E = m x L
E = energy required to change state (J)
m = mass (kg)
L = specific latent heat (J/kg)
The energy required to change state (J) differs from substance to substance, meaning that each substance has a different specific latent heat of vaporisation. The lower the specific latent heat of vaporisation, the less energy (J) is required to convert a substance from a liquid to a gas. Substances with a low specific latent heat of vaporisation can be described as ‘volatile’.
The specific latent heat of water is 2,260 kJ/kg, relatively high compared to ethyl alcohol 846 kJ/kg, less energy (J) is required to convert ethyl alcohol (ethanol) from a liquid to a gas than water. This means when a perfume is applied, the alcohol component (containing the fragrance) vaporises and releases the scent.
Top, Middle and Base Notes
The reason we have top, middle and base notes in a fragrance is because the fragrance components have different specific latent heats of vaporisation. Some essential oils have longer chains, which require more energy (J) to change from a liquid to vapour state (more/stronger bonds to break), therefore, they are released later.
The bonds which need to be broken are the intermolecular bonds (bonds between molecules). These include dipole-dipole attraction, hydrogen bonding and van der Waals forces. The most common forces between fragrance molecules are van der Waals forces (the weakest type of force), which means breaking those forces requires very little energy.
Van der Waals forces play a part in all molecules with un-coupled electrons, the more atoms with uncoupled electrons, the stronger the forces. Which can be simplified to: the more atoms, the stronger the forces.
The shorter the chains, the less energy required to change state, therefore, they vaporise sooner than the other fragrance components.
Limonene
Limonene doesn’t contain any oxygen molecules and has the lowest molecular weight, meaning no hydrogen bonds and a low level of van der Waals.
Eugenol
Eugenol has two oxygens and a relatively high molecular weight, meaning hydrogen bonding and many van der Waals forces increase the specific heat of vaporisation of Eugenol compared to other fragrance components.
Eucalyptol
Eucalyptol (the main component of eucalyptus fragrance oils), has a complex and very stable structure. Due to the oxygen with its free pair of electrons, it’s able to form hydrogen bonds with other Eucalyptol molecules. It has a lot of branches, therefore, there are many van der Waals forces.
Fragrance Vs Flavour
Fragrance products contain a scent element which evaporates and is picked up by receptors in your nose to provide beneficial sensorial characteristics. Flavour products contain a taste element which is picked up by receptors on your tongue to provide beneficial sensorial characteristics.
These two categories of products are often confused when discussing lip products as the receptors in your nose and on your tongue react to similar chemical stimuli, but these are not the same. Humans often confuse smell for taste (take for example air-up bottles), as very similar chemical stimuli interact with receptors on the tongue and in the nose.
However, perfuming is a cosmetic function whereas providing taste is not. The below is the EU cosmetic regulation definition of a cosmetic.
“any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.”
The EU definition (or any other definition for that matter) of a cosmetic does not include products which provide a flavour, therefore, flavouring products are not considered cosmetics.
Fragrance Product Types
Eau de Cologne
Eau de cologne is the weakest of the perfume-type cosmetic preparations with only 2 – 4% fragrance component in the formulation. As we saw previously, the latent heat of vaporisation depends on the mass (m) of the substance, therefore, the less fragrance, the lower the latent heat of evaporation – meaning the product will not last as long as other fragrance preparations with higher concentrations.
Eau de Toilette
Eau de toilette preparations are the most common fragrance preparations in the cosmetics world with the largest range of added fragrance 5 – 15%. This is an everyday product with a sophisticated note profile with top, middle and base notes, perfect for the day. The main notes of an eau de toilette are top and middle notes.
Eau de Parfum
Eau de parfum products are more commonly used in the evenings as the increased fragrance concentration (15 – 20%) allows for a more broad base note composition. Base notes are more typically associated with the evening and are more easily identified the longer the fragrance remains on the body.
Parfum
Parfum is one of the only fragrance preparations which are not ‘diluted’ with water. Of course it still contains water, but as the name suggests, it is the pure form of the fragrance – as it was intended. Because it is not ‘diluted’, parfums come at a higher price tag and last significantly longer than eau de colognes or eau de toilettes. The high concentration of the fragrance component (20 – 30%) increases the mass (m) in the specific latent heat equation – making it last much longer.
Extrait de Parfum
Extrait de parfum, or perfume extract, is the most concentrated form of perfume, containing 25-30% fragrance oils. Due to its high concentration, it is extremely costly and should be used sparingly because of its potentially high allergen content. This type of perfum lasts the longest among all fragrance products and offers the most extensive range of top, middle, and base notes.
Body/Hair Mist
Body and hair mists are not perfumes. They are cosmetic preparations with fragrance components, but are not classified as perfumes due to their low fragrance content (1 -3%). These products typically only exhibit top notes and some middle notes. The majority of notes in these products are top notes, with minimal middle and no base notes, typically very fruity and light. These products are not meant to last long and are designed to be re-applied regularly – unlike perfume.
Cosmetic Fragrance Preparations
There are also many other cosmetic formulations, including moisturisers, body washes, foot scrubs, shampoos, hair mouse etc. which contain fragrance. These products are secondary fragrance products as their main role is not to provide a pleasant smell. Sometimes fragrance is used to mask an unpleasant formulation scent, other times to enhance consumer experience.
The concentration of fragrance in these products is highly dependent on the area of application. Products designed for the face (eye cream, spot lotion, lip balm etc.) will contain a lower fragrance concentration because they are designed to be applied in close proximity to the nose, high concentrations can be overpowering and displease consumers. Therefore, face products typically have a fragrance component concentration of 0.1 – 0.5%. Body products however, (lotions, body scrubs, shower gels etc.) can have a higher concentration, between 0.5 – 1%. Products designed to be washed-off often have a higher concentration of fragrance, between 1 – 3% (shampoos, conditioners, foot scrub) to be able to retain the scent once rinsed-off.
Ingredients in Fragrance Products
Water
As a universal solvent, water can dissolve a wide variety of ingredients, facilitating the blending of oils, fragrances, and other components into a cohesive product. Its use as the continuous phase ensures that these ingredients are evenly distributed, enhancing the stability and consistency of the formulation. Water is also non-irritating, and suitable for all skin types, rendering it an effective base for a diverse array of cosmetic products. Moreover, water-based formulations are lighter and more refreshing on the skin, thus offering a pleasant sensory experience. Sprays must be very light and non-viscous, making water suitable as the continuous phase of fragrance products.
Alcohol
Alcohol is commonly used as a solvent in perfumes for several reasons. First, it has no natural scent, which means it will not alter the final fragrance of the product. This ensures that the intended aroma of the perfume remains pure and unadulterated. Second, alcohol is considered safe for application on the skin, with no significant health effects when used in typical cosmetic concentrations. Finally, alcohol evaporates quickly upon application, leaving only the fragrance on the skin without any residual solvent.
Emulsifying Agents
PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is a widely used emulsifying agent in cosmetic fragrance formulations. As a derivative of castor oil, it combines the natural moisturising benefits of castor oil with the enhanced solubility provided by polyethylene glycol (PEG). This emulsifier plays a crucial role in stabilising and homogenising mixtures of oil and water, ensuring that the fragrance components are evenly distributed throughout the product. Its excellent emulsifying properties help to maintain the consistency and texture of lotions, creams, and sprays, preventing the separation of ingredients. Additionally, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil is valued for its mildness and compatibility with a wide range of skin types, making it suitable for various personal care products.
Allergens
Fragrance components are a mixture of molecules which include substances called ‘allergens’. Allergens are substances which have the potential to elicit an allergic reaction.
Allergens are harmless to the vast majority of people, but can cause an allergic reaction in some. The two most frequent manifestations of chemical-induced allergy are contact hypersensitivity (skin related effects) and respiratory sensitization (wheezing, coughing, asthma).
Almost any substance, natural or man-made, has the potential to produce an allergic reaction in someone, somewhere. Although rare, reactions to fragrances sometimes occur. Fragrance allergens may cause allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), which is a delayed, immune-mediated, inflammatory skin reaction occurring at the site of contact with a sensitiser (a contact allergen) in previously sensitised individuals (who developed contact allergy to it).
Allergens, also known as ‘skin sensitisers’, cause sensitisation when they come into contact with the skin. An individual can become sensitised after the first skin contact with a strong allergen, or multiple contacts may be needed with a weak allergen. During this sensitisation phase, known as the ‘induction’ phase, the body learns to recognize the allergen for future encounters. However, no immediate allergic reaction (e.g., rash, swelling) occurs during this phase. Once sensitised, subsequent exposure to the allergen triggers memory T-cells in the immune system, leading to an inflammatory response. This response, termed the ‘elicitation’ phase, manifests as an allergic reaction.
Citral
Citral (3,7-dimethyl-2,6-octadienal) is an unsaturated aldehyde, commonly known and preferred for its distinct lemon-like odour. It is a main component of citrus fruit’s peel oil. Citral, one of the most important natural flavouring compounds having intense lemon aroma and flavour, is widely used as an additive in foods, beverages and cosmetics with high consumer acceptance.
Limonene
Pure limonene is a colourless liquid that is classified as a monoterpene. It is made up of two isoprene units. This allergen occurs in two optically active forms: l-limonene and d-limonene. The two isomers have different odours: l-limonene smells like pine and turpentine and d-limonene has a pleasing orange scent.
Linalool
Linalool is a noncyclic monoterpenoid that is commonly extracted from lavender, rose, basil and neroli oil. It is a floral and spicy terpene alcohol. It is found in over 200 plants. Concentrations of linalool above 20 ppb have been shown to give a fruity hoppy aroma.
Citronellol
Citronellol is an acyclic monoterpene alcohol found in essential oils of numerous aromatic plants. Citronellol is an essential oil with three natural products l-citronellol, d-citronellol and racemate, and is mainly found in rose and pelargonium essential oils.
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl alcohol is an aromatic alcohol that consists of benzene bearing a single hydroxymethyl substituent. It has a role as a solvent, a metabolite, an antioxidant and a fragrance. Benzyl alcohol is a water-white liquid with a faint aromatic odour and a sharp burning taste. Benzyl Alcohol is also used as a preservative component in cosmetics, therefore, it can be both an ingredient and an allergen.
Eugenol
Eugenol is a phenylpropene, an allyl chain-substituted guaiacol. It is a member of the phenylpropanoids class of chemical compounds. It is a colourless to pale yellow oily liquid. Eugenol is a phenolic component found in a variety of plants, including clove oil, nutmeg oil, cinnamon extract, and others.
Benzyl Benzoate
Benzyl benzoate (ester of benzyl alcohol and benzoic acid) is one of the oldest and cost-effective drugs for the treatment of scabies. An evaluation of the impact of fragrance compounds on dermatitis led benzyl benzoate to be classified as a rare sensitizer. Skin reactions are the most common reaction to benzyl benzoate, usually described as nonallergic contact dermatitis.
Amyl Cinnamal
Amyl cinnamal is a volatile fragrance ingredient with a jasmine-like aroma. Although this ingredient occurs naturally in some plants, the form included in personal care products is usually created synthetically.
Cinnamal
Cinnamal, also known as cinnamaldehyde, has a pleasant warm, spicy, cinnamon-like scent. It is a phenylpropanoid that is naturally synthesised. This pale yellow, viscous liquid occurs in the bark of cinnamon trees and other species of the genus Cinnamomum. The essential oil of cinnamon bark is about 90% cinnamaldehyde.
Coumarin
Coumarin is a colourless crystalline solid with a sweet odour resembling the scent of vanilla and a bitter taste. It is found in many plants, where it serves as a chemical defence against small insects.
Geraniol
Geraniol is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol with a rose-like scent. It is the primary component of citronella oil and is a primary component of rose and palmarosa oil. It is a colourless oil, although commercial samples can appear yellow. In addition to rose oil, palmarosa oil, and citronella oil, it also occurs in small quantities in geranium, lemon, and many other essential oils.
Formulation of Fragrance Products
Perfume (eau de cologne, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, extrait de parfum, parfum)
Ingredient | Maximum Concentration (% w/w) |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 98 |
Parfum | 30 |
Emollients & Humectants | 10 |
Emulsifying Agents | 2 |
UV Filters | 2 |
Thickeners | 2 |
Colourants | 1 |
Chelating Agents | 1 |
Antioxidants | 0.5 |
Aqua | To 100 |
Ingredient Types and functions in Fine Fragrances
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) – 98%
Primary solvent in perfumes, ensuring fragrance purity through rapid evaporation. Stable, non-toxic, and safe for topical use.
Parfum – 30%
Includes fragrance oils and aromatic compounds, concentration varies for longevity based on product type.
Emollients & Humectants – 10%
Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol. Moisturise skin and enhance smooth application, counteracting dryness caused by alcohol.
Emulsifying Agents – 2%
Example: PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil. Stabilise oil-water blend, ensure uniform mixture, prevent separation.
UV Filters – 2%
Protect perfume from sunlight degradation, maintain fragrance stability and longevity.
Thickeners – 2%
Example: Carbomers. Adjust viscosity for desired consistency, prevent runniness.
Colourants – 1%
Add visual appeal, selected to complement the fragrance theme (e.g., yellow for sweetness).
Chelating Agents – 1%
Example: EDTA. Bind metal ions to enhance formulation stability and shelf life.
Antioxidants – 0.5%
Prevent oxidation, maintain fragrance integrity and scent profile over time.
Aqua (Water) – To 100%
Acts as carrier, aids ingredient dissolution, ensures even distribution, contributes to refreshing feel on skin.
Perfumed powder (loose or pressed)
Ingredients | Maximum Concentration (% w/w) |
Mineral Bulking Agents | 99 |
Other Bulking Agents | 50 |
Colourants | 40 |
Opacifying Agents | 40 |
Parfum | 25 |
Binding Agents | 10 |
UV Filters | 5 |
Antioxidants | 5 |
Preservatives | 1 |
Ingredient Types and functions in Perfumed Powders
Mineral Bulking Agents – 99%
Examples: Talc, mica, silica. Form the primary base, providing a smooth texture, absorbing moisture and oil, and ensuring easy application.
Other Bulking Agents – 50%
Examples: Corn starch, rice starch, kaolin. Enhance volume and texture, improve absorbency, and control shine.
Colourants – 40%
Examples: Iron oxides, ultramarines. Add pigmentation, providing a variety of shades.
Opacifying Agents – 40%
Examples: Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. Provide coverage, mask imperfections, and even out skin tone.
Parfum – 25%
Adds fragrance, ensuring a noticeable and long-lasting scent. Concentration varies by application area.
Binding Agents – 10%
Examples: Magnesium stearate, zinc stearate. Help adhere powder to the skin, improving wear time and cohesiveness.
UV Filters – 5%
Examples: Titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. Provide some sun protection, also act as opacifying agents.
Antioxidants – 5%
Examples: Vitamin E, ascorbic acid. Protect from oxidative damage and extend shelf life.
Preservatives – 1%
Examples: Parabens, phenoxyethanol. Prevent bacterial growth, ensuring product safety and longevity.
Solid Perfume (paste, wax)
Ingredients | Maximum Concentration (% w/w) |
Oils, Waxes & Fats | 90 |
Colourants | 50 |
Opacifying Agents | 50 |
Silicones | 30 |
Humectants | 30 |
Parfum | 25 |
Bulking Agents | 20 |
Thickeners | 10 |
Film Forming Polymers | 5 |
Antioxidants | 5 |
Preservatives | 1 |
Ingredient Types and functions in Solid Perfumes
Oils, Waxes & Fats – 90%
Form the base, providing texture and consistency. Examples include beeswax, shea butter, cocoa butter, and plant-based oils. Ensure the perfume is solid at room temperature but melts on the skin.
Colourants – 50%
Provide pigmentation, giving an attractive appearance that matches the product’s theme.
Opacifying Agents – 50%
Agents like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide enhance opacity and provide a smooth, matte finish, masking imperfections.
Silicones – 30%
Examples include cyclomethicone and dimethicone, which improve spreadability and texture, imparting a silky, smooth feel and locking in moisture.
Humectants – 30%
Examples like glycerin and propylene glycol attract moisture to the skin, providing hydration and preventing dryness.
Parfum – 25%
Includes fragrance oils and aromatic compounds for a noticeable, long-lasting scent.
Bulking Agents – 20%
Examples include tapioca starch and rice starch, adding volume and improving texture, stabilizing the formulation.
Thickeners – 10%
Examples like beeswax and carnauba wax provide solid consistency and improve moldability, enhancing fragrance longevity.
Film Forming Polymers – 5%
Examples like polyethylene and acrylates copolymer create a protective layer, enhancing fragrance longevity and adherence.
Antioxidants – 5%
Examples include vitamin E and rosemary extract, protecting from oxidation and maintaining fragrance integrity.
Preservatives – 1%
Examples like phenoxyethanol and parabens prevent microbial growth, ensuring safety and longevity.
Perfumed Skin Oil
Ingredients | Maximum Concentration |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 80 |
Colourants | 40 |
Opacifying Agents | 40 |
Silicones | 30 |
Parfum | 25 |
Bulking Agents | 15 |
Humectants | 10 |
Emulsifying Agents | 5 |
Thickeners | 5 |
Antioxidants | 5 |
Additional ingredients (botanicals) | 5 |
UV Filters | 2 |
Oils | To 100 |
Ingredient Types and functions in Skin Oils
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) – 80%
Acts as a solvent and carrier, dispersing the fragrance evenly and promoting quick drying, leaving a light, non-greasy feel.
Colourants – 40%
Add visual appeal, providing a safe tint or hue that enhances the product’s aesthetic.
Opacifying Agents – 40%
Agents like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide improve texture and appearance, providing a smooth, matte finish and blending colourants evenly.
Silicones – 30%
Silicones such as cyclomethicone and dimethicone enhance spreadability, impart a silky texture, and seal in moisture without a heavy feel.
Parfum – 25%
Concentrated fragrance oils and aromatic compounds provide a distinct, long-lasting scent.
Bulking Agents – 15%
Agents like cyclodextrin or microcrystalline cellulose improve viscosity and stability, preventing ingredient separation.
Humectants – 10%
Humectants such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid attract moisture, providing hydration and improving the skin’s moisture balance.
Emulsifying Agents – 5%
Agents like polysorbate 20 or cetearyl alcohol blend water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, ensuring a stable, uniform mixture.
Thickeners – 5%
Thickeners such as xanthan gum or carbomers adjust viscosity, improving spreadability and adherence to the skin.
Antioxidants – 5%
Antioxidants like vitamin E or green tea extract protect from oxidation and free radical damage, maintaining ingredient integrity.
Additional Ingredients (Botanicals) – 5%
Botanical extracts like lavender extract or rosehip oil provide skincare benefits and enhance fragrance, offering soothing or nourishing properties.
UV Filters – 2%
Filters like octocrylene or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate help maintain a longer shelf life.
Oils – To 100%
Carrier oils like jojoba, almond, and grapeseed oil form the majority, providing nourishment and hydration while serving as the base for the fragrance and other ingredients.
Skin care cream, lotion, gel – with high level of perfume
Ingredients | Maximum Concentration (% w/w) |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 80 |
Oils, Waxes & Fats | 60 |
Parfum | 25 |
Emulsifying Agents | 25 |
Silicones | 20 |
Humectants | 20 |
Colourants | 20 |
Thickeners | 15 |
Bulking Agents | 10 |
UV Filters | 5 |
Antioxidants | 5 |
Additional ingredients (botanicals) | 5 |
Preservatives | 2 |
Water | To 100 |
Ingredient Types and functions in skin care creams
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) – 80%
Acts as a solvent and carrier for fragrance, facilitating quick drying and a non-greasy feel.
Oils, Waxes & Fats – 60%
Provide emollient properties, nourishing and moisturising the skin. Examples include shea butter, cocoa butter, and various plant-based oils.
Parfum – 25%
Concentrated fragrance oils and aromatic compounds impart a pleasant scent.
Emulsifying Agents – 25%
Stabilise the mixture of water and oils, ensuring a smooth texture. Examples include cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 80.
Silicones – 20%
Enhance spreadability and create a protective barrier. Examples include dimethicone and cyclomethicone.
Humectants – 20%
Attract moisture, enhancing hydration and skin suppleness. Examples include glycerin and hyaluronic acid.
Colourants – 20%
Add visual appeal and are safe for topical use.
Thickeners – 15%
Adjust viscosity, improving consistency and spreadability. Examples include carbomers and xanthan gum.
Bulking Agents – 10%
Improve volume and stability, enhancing texture. Examples include microcrystalline cellulose and starches.
UV Filters – 5%
Protect against ingredient destabilisation. Examples include octinoxate and titanium dioxide.
Antioxidants – 5%
Protect from oxidative stress, maintaining ingredient stability. Examples include vitamin E and green tea extract.
Additional Ingredients (Botanicals) – 5%
Provide additional skincare benefits and enhance fragrance. Examples include chamomile extract and jojoba oil.
Preservatives – 2%
Prevent microbial growth, ensuring safety and stability. Examples include phenoxyethanol and parabens.
Water – To 100%
Forms the base, providing hydration and blending other components.
Regulations of Fragrance Products
Understanding ingredient information plays a crucial role in preventing allergic contact dermatitis. Healthcare professionals and regulators consider it essential to know which allergens a patient has been exposed to for conducting accurate allergy tests and providing guidance on avoiding future exposure. Therefore, regulations require that product ingredient lists clearly label certain fragrance allergens if they exceed specified concentration thresholds. Article 19 of both UK and EU Cosmetics Regulations mandates that products containing fragrances must include “parfum” in their ingredients (“fragrance” in the USA). Additionally, manufacturers must label all fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, regardless of their source (e.g., fragrance, essential oils, natural extracts), if they exceed 0.01% (for rinse-off products) or 0.001% (for leave-on products). Annex III of the UK and EU Cosmetics Regulations governs these regulations.
Allergen Listings
The allergen list used to be 26 allergens, but this list has been expanded. In response to the Commission services’ request for an update, the scientific committee on consumer safety (SCCS), gave an opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11) on 26-27 June 2012. In it, the SCCS stated that consumers should be informed about additional fragrance ingredients in cosmetic products, on top of those 26 already subject to individual labelling. A guidance document has been released by Cosmetics Europe to help brands comply with the new fragrance allergen labelling requirements.
If there is a single name in column c; e.g. Benzyl Alcohol, that name should appear in the ingredients list. If there are multiple names in column c, you should refer to column ‘h’ for the combined name. E.g. entry 70: Citral, Geranial, Neral, should be stated as ‘Citral’ in the ingredients list.
Example of allergen declaration: click here to view.
The declaration of allergens is only required above restriction thresholds: 0.01% (for rinse-off products) or 0.001% (for leave-on products). The concentration of allergen in a product is calculated by taking the percentage of the allergen in the fragrance, divided by 100, multiplied by the percentage of fragrance in the product.
Example: A product contains 6% fragrance, and there is 2% Limonene in the fragrance.
2/100 x 6 = 0.12% Limonene in the product.
This is above the restriction threshold of 0.01% (for rinse-off products) and 0.001% (for leave-on products), so the allergen Limonene needs to be labelled on both rinse-off and leave-on products.
IFRA
IFRA stands for the International Fragrance Association. It is a global trade association representing the fragrance industry, including fragrance suppliers, manufacturers, and brand owners. IFRA’s primary role is to promote the safe use of fragrances worldwide through the establishment of standards and guidelines.
Here are key roles and functions of IFRA in the cosmetics fragrance industry:
- Safety Standards and Guidelines: IFRA develops and maintains a Code of Practice that establishes safety standards for the use of fragrance ingredients. These standards are based on scientific research and risk assessments to ensure the safety of consumers and the environment.
- Regulatory Compliance: IFRA works closely with regulatory authorities worldwide to ensure that fragrance ingredients comply with local regulations and international standards. This includes providing expertise on fragrance safety and participating in regulatory discussions and consultations.
- Ingredient Transparency: IFRA promotes transparency in fragrance formulations by providing guidance on labelling requirements and encouraging members to disclose fragrance ingredients to consumers.
- Research and Development: IFRA invests in scientific research to better understand the safety and efficacy of fragrance ingredients. This research informs the development of new standards and guidelines for the industry.
- Sustainability and Environmental Responsibility: IFRA promotes sustainable practices within the fragrance industry, including the responsible sourcing of raw materials and minimising the environmental impact of fragrance production and use.
Claims of Fragrance Products
Aromatherapy Products
Aromatherapy products have seen an increased popularity in recent years. These products claim to have beneficial psychological effects such as calming, relaxing and de-stressing. Psychological effects are not a part of the definition of a cosmetic globally, therefore, if a product’s main purpose is to calm, relax, energise or invigorate – it cannot be a cosmetic.
If we take a look at the cosmetic definition:
“any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.”
The most crucial aspect of this definition concerning borderline products/claims is the term ‘mainly’. As long as a cosmetic product’s primary purpose is to cleanse, perfume, alter appearance, protect, maintain, or correct body odour, there is some leeway regarding additional secondary benefits these products may offer.
However, it is essential to note that cosmetic products must not overlap with drugs (substances with potential psychological effects). Therefore, any secondary claims must strictly align with cosmetic purposes.
For instance, claims like ‘De-stressing moisturiser’ are prohibited. Since stress in significant amounts is recognized as a mental health issue, alleviating mental health concerns falls well outside the scope of cosmetics. It is advisable to avoid such claims, despite their use by other brands.
The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) has published an article about aromatherapy claims, click here to view.
Hyperbole Claims
Hyperboles are often used as claims for fragrance products, for example ‘the path to inner peace’ or ‘sit with Ghandi under the tree of life’. Consumers understand that these are not promises the brand is going to keep, just marketing fluff to entice you into purchasing the product. Hyperbole claims must be clear exaggerations and cannot lead the consumer to believe the claim is meant to be taking literally.
Cosmetics Europe has published a claims guidance document which include hyperbolic claims, click here to view.
Fragrance Composition Claims
The substantiation of claims such as “top notes of XYZ” or “base notes of XYZ” can be substantiated by consumer studies as well as ingredient review. Consumer perceptions of perfumes can be varied, therefore, expert panels of fragrance specialists (also known as ‘noses’) can help better understand the complexities of the fragrance.
Fragrance Free
‘Free from’ claims have gained great popularity over the past decade, with consumers wanting to avoid ‘chemicals’ and the rise of ‘clean’ beauty. Fragrance free products are, however, useful. As mentioned previously, allergen contents and our exposure to these substances is of increasing importance as we use more and more cosmetic products daily. Although we may not be allergic to a substance today, it doesn’t mean the repeat exposure dose won’t elicit a reaction in the future.
This makes claims such as ‘fragrance free’ an important tool for consumers who are knowingly sensitised to allergens.
Fragrance free means no fragrance and no fragrance ingredients have been intentionally or unintentionally added to the product.
No added fragrance means no fragrance has been intentionally added, but may contain fragrance ingredients.
Unscented means there is no noticeable fragrance to the product. Fragrance and fragrance ingredients may have been intentionally added, but they are not noticeable.
The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association (CTPA) have published a guidance document on free from claims, click here to view.
