Cosmetic Ingredients
Cosmetic ingredients fall into three categories: active ingredients that directly affect the skin (like retinoids or zinc oxide), functional ingredients that ensure product stability and usability (such as emulsifiers and preservatives), and aesthetic modifiers that enhance sensory appeal (like mica and fragrances). A create resource for cosmetic ingredients is Paula’s Choice Ingredient Dictionary.
To look up the changing status of cosmetic ingredients, visit our Ingredient Legal Status page.
About Cosmetic Ingredients
Understanding of cosmetic ingredients is a key part of cosmetic science, including active and in-active ingredients.
Each cosmetic formulation consists of between 5 to 30 ingredients, each of which has a specific function in the formulation. Cosmetic ingredients can be categorised based on their functions, for example: surfactants, emollients, preservatives etc. In this series of articles, you can learn about the different categories of cosmetic ingredients and learn how to analyse a formulation or ingredients list on pack.
Library
Here you can view all the cosmetic ingredient articles at a glance and search for ingredients. To view the latest articles and for full descriptions of each, scroll down. Each of these ingredients are classified as ‘active ingredients’ and exert a physiological or mechanical action on the skin, hair or nails.
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Articles: Cosmetic Ingredients

Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid, a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid derived from grains such as wheat, barley, and rye, has garnered significant attention in dermatology and cosmetic science for its multifaceted bioactivity. This article explores the molecular and cellular


Panthenol
Panthenol, commonly known as provitamin B5, is a staple ingredient in cosmetic formulations due to its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and skin barrier-enhancing properties. This article delves into the mechanisms by which panthenol operates at the cellular level,

Hydroxy Acids
Hydroxy acids are popular components in dermatology and cosmetic science, renowned for their exfoliative properties and skin rejuvenation capabilities. This article delves into their mechanisms of action at the cellular level, evaluates clinical evidence supporting their

Peptides
Peptides are celebrated for their multifaceted roles in skin rejuvenation and repair in the skincare industry. This article explores the mechanisms of action of various peptide classes—including signaling peptides, carrier peptides, neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides, and enzyme-inhibiting peptides—examines

Ceramides
Cosmetic ingredients, whether actives or non-actives, all play a crucial role in a cosmetics benefits, viscosity, preservation, stability or sensory characteristics. The cosmetic ingredients series is designed to give you an insight into interesting cosmetic ingredients,

Hyaluronic Acid
‘Hyaluronic Acid’, ‘HA’, ‘Hydration Ingredient’, we’ve heard it all in the cosmetic adverts. It seems like nowadays, there isn’t a single cosmetic out there without the addition of hyaluronic acid. Why is it so popular? In

Emollients
Emollients are the backbone to most cosmetic skincare formulations. They’re not what we typically think of when we hear “skincare actives”, but you’d be surprised just how important they are and what benefits they can provide.


Niacinamide
In this article about niacinamide in skincare, we will dive deep into the mechanism of action, benefits, drawbacks, formulation challenges and formulation types of products containing niacinamide. Niacinamide is a hydrophilic, biologically active form of vitamin









