In this article about colour cosmetic products you will learn all about how colour is analysed in the cosmetics industry, the different types of colour cosmetics, the ingredients commonly found in colour cosmetic products and their formulation, regulation and claims.
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Fundamentals of Colour Cosmetic Products
Colour cosmetics are products whose main function is to deliver change in appearance, as defined by the EU cosmetic regulation definition of a cosmetic.
“any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours.”
Colour cosmetic products are one of the first cosmetics to be popularised as “women’s cosmetics” and were a sign of status.
Lab values to analyse colour cosmetic products
Colours across industries are analysed using the Lab system.
Lab values are represented by three axes: L, a, and b. The L axis measures darkness to lightness, with values ranging from 0 to 100, where 0 represents absolute darkness. The a axis ranges from -128 to +127, indicating the transition from greenness to redness, while the b axis, also ranging from -128 to +127, represents the transition from blueness to yellowness. Unlike the a and b axes, the L axis does not have negative values, as it only describes lightness, not colour.
The L axis is considered achromatic, meaning it is related to light intensity rather than colour. In contrast, the a and b axes are chromatic, describing the hue and type of colour.
When represented in two dimensions, only the a and b axes are shown, with a as the horizontal axis and b as the vertical axis. In this depiction, red is to the right, green to the left, blue at the bottom, and yellow at the top. You can remember the placement using the acronym RGBY: Red is on the right, Blue at the bottom.
Colours near the centre of the colour space, along the L axis, are more neutral and grey, as opposing colours cancel each other out, reducing saturation. The most saturated colours are found at the extremes of the a and b axes, in both the positive and negative directions.
Colour Cosmetic Product Types
Face products
Foundations & Concealers
Foundation and concealer have been among the oldest cosmetic products, with roots in ancient civilizations. In ancient Egypt, both men and women applied face paints and rudimentary foundations made from natural ingredients like ochre and clay. The modern foundation evolved significantly in the early 20th century when Max Factor developed the first commercially available foundation stick in the 1930s, intended for use in film to create a flawless complexion under harsh lighting. Later, more concentrated concealers, used for spot treatment, gained popularity in the 1950s as makeup became more accessible, and women sought products to cover blemishes and dark circles.
Foundation: This base product evens out skin tone and provides a uniform complexion. It can range from sheer to full coverage and come in various forms like liquid, cream, powder, or stick.
Concealer: This more pigmented product covers specific areas, such as dark circles, blemishes, and discoloration. It’s usually thicker than foundation and is applied either after or before foundation, depending on the desired effect.
Blushers
Blush has been used since antiquity to add colour to the cheeks, signifying health and vitality. In ancient Greece and Rome, women used crushed berries and other natural pigments to achieve a rosy glow. The Victorian era saw a decline in its use due to modesty, but blush returned to fashion in the 20th century with the development of more refined products. The 1920s saw the introduction of powdered blush, making it more convenient and popular.
Blush (or Blusher): A product designed to add colour to the cheeks, giving the face a healthy, flushed appearance. It can be found in various forms, including powder, cream, gel, and liquid, and is typically applied to the apples of the cheeks.
Highlighters & Contours
The techniques of highlighting and contouring have roots in stage makeup, where actors used these methods to define their features under heavy lighting. Later on, the practice was adapted for everyday use by makeup artists like Kevyn Aucoin in the 1990s, who popularised it in fashion and editorial photography. Subsequently, the 2010s saw a surge in the popularity of contouring and highlighting among the general public, fueled by social media and the beauty influencer industry.
Highlighter: Specifically, highlighter is used to accentuate the high points of the face (like cheekbones, brow bones, and the bridge of the nose) by reflecting light. Highlighters can be found in powder, liquid, or cream forms and often contain shimmer or a reflective finish.
Contour: In contrast, contour is a product used to create shadows on the face, helping to define and sculpt features like the nose, jawline, and cheekbones. Contours are typically matte and can come in powder, cream, or stick forms, usually in shades darker than the wearer’s skin tone.
Setting Powders
Setting powders have been used for centuries, with early versions made from crushed minerals or talc. In the early 20th century, setting powders became an essential part of makeup routines, especially with the rise of film and photography, where they were used to reduce shine and keep makeup in place. The concept of “setting” makeup to extend its wear time became particularly popular in the 1940s and 1950s.
Setting Powder: A product used to set foundation and concealer in place, preventing creasing and shine throughout the day. It can be translucent or tinted and comes in loose or pressed forms. Setting powders help to mattify the skin, reduce the appearance of pores, and prolong the wear of makeup.
Lip products
Lipsticks
Lipsticks have a rich history dating back to ancient civilizations. In ancient Mesopotamia around 5,000 years ago, women crushed gemstones to decorate their lips. The Egyptians, particularly Cleopatra, are known to have used crushed insects and carmine to create vibrant red lip colours. In more modern history, lipstick became popular in the 16th century, with Queen Elizabeth I popularising the use of bright red lips paired with a pale face. The first commercial lipsticks, made from deer tallow, beeswax, and castor oil, were introduced in the late 19th century by Guerlain. By the 20th century, lipstick became a mainstream beauty product, with solid forms housed in metal tubes becoming the norm.
Lipstick: A pigmented cosmetic product used to colour the lips. It typically comes in a solid stick form and offers various finishes such as matte, satin, and glossy. Lipsticks provide full coverage and are available in a wide range of colours. They can also contain moisturising ingredients, though their primary function is to provide colour.
Lip Glosses & Balms
Lip balm, primarily intended to protect and moisturise the lips, was first introduced in the 1880s by Charles Browne Fleet as ChapStick. It was designed to treat chapped lips. Lip gloss, on the other hand, was introduced in 1930 by Max Factor to give actresses a shiny appearance on film. It gained popularity among the general public for its ability to add shine and a subtle tint of colour to the lips.
Lip Gloss: A product designed to add shine and, in some cases, a hint of colour to the lips. It has a lighter texture compared to lipstick and is typically available in liquid or gel form. Lip glosses can range from sheer to pigmented and often have a glossy or shimmery finish.
Lip Balm: Primarily focused on moisturising and protecting the lips, lip balm is often colourless or lightly tinted. It can contain ingredients like beeswax, shea butter, and various oils to soothe and repair dry or chapped lips. Unlike lip gloss, lip balm is more about hydration than aesthetics, although tinted versions can add a subtle colour.
Lip Pencils
Lip pencils, also known as lip liners, were developed to help define and shape the lips, providing a base for lipstick application. The use of lip liners became prominent in the 1940s and 1950s when women sought a more precise and long-lasting lip colour. The concept of outlining the lips to prevent lipstick from feathering or smudging led to the widespread use of lip pencils.
Lip Pencil: A product used to define the edges of the lips, create a base for lipstick, or fill in the lips entirely for a matte effect. Lip pencils are firmer than lipsticks, allowing for precision in application. They can prevent lipstick from bleeding and help it last longer by providing a waxy base. Lip pencils are available in various shades to match or contrast with lipstick colours.
Eye Products
Eyeshadow
Eyeshadow has been used for thousands of years, with its origins traced back to ancient Egypt around 10,000 BCE. Egyptians used a substance called kohl, made from crushed minerals like malachite and galena, to decorate their eyelids and protect their eyes from the sun’s glare. In ancient Greece and Rome, women used similar mineral-based powders to highlight their eyes. The modern eyeshadow as we know it, available in a variety of colours and finishes, began to take shape in the early 20th century. The cosmetic industry saw rapid innovation in the 1920s with the rise of Hollywood, where dramatic eye makeup became popular. Eyeshadow evolved from being primarily a powdered product to include cream, gel, and liquid forms.
Eyeshadow: A cosmetic product applied to the eyelids and under the eyes to add colour, depth, and dimension. It comes in various forms, including powder, cream, and liquid, and can have finishes such as matte, shimmer, satin, or metallic. Eyeshadows are available in a wide range of colours and are often used to enhance or contrast the natural eye colour, as well as to create different looks ranging from subtle to bold.
Eye Pencil
The eye pencil, or eyeliner, has a history dating back to ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. Both men and women used kohl to line their eyes, believing it had protective and medicinal properties. This early form of eyeliner was often applied in thick, bold lines. In the 20th century, the use of eye pencils became more refined, particularly in the 1920s with the influence of the silent film era, where defined eyes became a beauty standard. The modern eye pencil was developed to offer precision and ease of application compared to liquid or gel eyeliners.
Eye Pencil: Specifically, an eye pencil is a cosmetic tool used to define and emphasise the eyes by lining the lash lines or water lines. Additionally, eye pencils are typically wax-based, allowing for a more controlled application. Furthermore, they can be used for precise lines or smudged for a softer, smokier effect. Moreover, eye pencils come in various shades, from classic black and brown to more vibrant colours.
Mascara
Mascara’s history dates back to ancient Egypt, where it was used not only to darken the lashes but also to ward off evil spirits. Egyptians initially used a mixture of kohl, crocodile dung, and water to achieve dark, voluminous lashes. However, in the 19th century, a more modern form of mascara was developed by Eugène Rimmel, whose name eventually became synonymous with the product in some languages. Later, the first packaged mascara, a cake-like product that required water and a brush, was introduced in the early 20th century. Finally, in 1957, Helena Rubinstein popularized the tube-and-wand mascara that we use today, which allowed for easier application and portability.
Mascara: A cosmetic product applied to the eyelashes to enhance their length, thickness, curl, and colour. Mascara comes in various formulas, including waterproof, volumizing, lengthening, and curling. It is typically available in liquid form, housed in a tube with a brush or wand applicator. Mascara is most commonly found in shades of black and brown, but it also comes in a range of colours for more creative looks.
Ingredients in Colour Cosmetic Products
Colourants (Pigments)
Colourants, or pigments, are the primary ingredients responsible for adding colour to cosmetic products. They provide the desired hue, intensity, and opacity in products like lipsticks, eyeshadows, foundations, and blushes. Pigments can be either natural or synthetic and are chosen based on the desired shade and finish of the product. Some pigments are used to create bold, vibrant colours, while others might be used for subtle, natural tones.
Examples of colourants (pigments)
- Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)
- Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891)
- D&C Black No. 2 (CI 77266)
- FD&C Blue No. 1 (CI 42090)
- D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15850)
- FD&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19140)
Binding Agents
Binding agents are used in colour cosmetics to hold the product together and ensure it adheres properly to the skin. They help maintain the structure and integrity of the product, preventing it from crumbling or breaking apart. In pressed powders, binding agents are crucial for compacting the product into a solid form that is easy to apply.
Examples of binding agents
- Jojoba Oil
- Dimethicone
- Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
- Octyl Palmitate
- Synthetic Wax
- Paraffin Wax
- Sunflower Oil
- Castor Oil
- Paraffin Wax
Anti-caking Agents
Anti-caking agents are added to powdered cosmetics to prevent clumping and ensure a smooth, even texture. They absorb moisture and reduce the tendency of powders to stick together, which helps the product flow freely and apply evenly on the skin. Moreover, these agents are particularly important in loose and pressed powders, ensuring they remain dry and easy to use.
Examples of anti-caking agents
- Zinc Stearate
- Magnesium Stearate
- Silica
- Zinc Laurate
- Magnesium Laurate
Silicones
Silicones are versatile ingredients in colour cosmetics, used for their ability to create a smooth, silky texture and enhance the spreadability of products. They form a protective barrier on the skin, helping to lock in moisture without feeling greasy. Silicones also improve the longevity and wear of cosmetics by providing water resistance and a lightweight feel. They are commonly found in foundations, primers, and other face products to create a flawless finish.
Examples of silicones
- Dimethicone
- Cyclopentasiloxane
- Phenyl Trimethicone
Formulation of Colour Cosmetic Products
Foundation, concealer & blusher (liquid/cream/foam)
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Liquid paraffin and isoparaffin | 60 |
Oils | 40 |
Emollients | 30 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 30 |
Bulking agents | 30 |
Colourants, colour additives | 30 |
Humectants | 25 |
Thickeners, emulsifying agents | 20 |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 15 |
UV filters | 10 |
Anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Parfum | 1 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient types and functions in foundation, concealer & blush (liquid/cream/foam) preparations
Liquid Paraffin and Isoparaffin – 60%
These are hydrocarbons used as emollients and solvents, helping to smooth the skin and disperse other ingredients. Examples include isododecane and isohexadecane.
Oils – 40%
Oils provide moisturization and a smooth application. They can be of vegetable origin (e.g., almond oil) or mineral origin (e.g., mineral oil).
Emollients (up to 30%)**: Emollients help to soften and soothe the skin. Common examples include propylene glycol and lanolin.
Silicones – 30%
Silicones improve the texture, spreadability, and wear of the product. Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone are typical examples.
Bulking Agents 30%
These materials add volume and provide texture. Talc and silica are common examples.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 30%
These ingredients provide the desired colour and finish. Examples include opacifying agents like titanium dioxide and pearlescent agents (mica). Typical colourants used to achieve a bronzed skin appearance are iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).
Humectants – 25%
Humectants attract moisture to the skin, helping to keep it hydrated. In colour cosmetic formulations they are used as anti-drying agents, preventing water loss which prevents other ingredients from drying out too fast. Glycerin is a well-known example.
Thickeners/Emulsifying Agents – 20%
These stabilise the formulation and provide the desired consistency, too thin of a foundation/concealer would be harder to apply in a concise area. Glyceryl stearate is a typical example.
Ethanol – 15%
Alcohol can act as a solvent, preservative, or astringent, helping to keep the product fresh and lightweight. Ethanol quickly evaporates after application, leaving a dry/matte finish.
UV Filters – 10%
These protect the skin from UV radiation, SPF foundations have gained popularity over the years as a simple 2in1 solution. Examples include ingredients like octinoxate.
Surfactants – 5%
These ingredients help to emulsify ingredients, allowing the mixture of water and oils into a cohesive preparation. Example: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
Additional Ingredients (up to 5%)**: These are specialized ingredients like vitamins or plant extracts that offer added benefits like nourishment or antioxidant protection.
Parfum – 1%
Fragrance added to provide a pleasant scent, these are not commonly used in concealers and blushers, more to mask unpleasant scents in foundations.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1%These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth.
Aqua (Water) – to 100%
Acts as a solvent and base to carry the other ingredients, making up the remainder of the formulation to 100%.
Foundation, concealer & blush (solid)
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils, waxes and fats | 55 |
Emollients | 50 |
Opacifying agents | 40 |
Colourants, colour additives | 40 |
Aqua | 10 |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 15 |
Bulking agents | 15 |
Thickeners | 10 |
UV filters | 10 |
Emulsifying agents | 6 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2 |
Ingredient types and functions in foundation, concealer & blush (anhydrous) preparations
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 55%
These provide the base of the formulation, offering moisturization, structure, and spreadability. Examples include vegetable oils (like jojoba oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols like cetyl alcohol.
Emollients – 50%
Emollients soften and smooth the skin, enhancing the product’s texture. Common examples include lanolin oil and isopropyl myristate.
Opacifying Agents – 40%
These ingredients reduce transparency and give the product a more solid, opaque appearance. Calcium carbonate and talc are commonly used.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 40%
These provide the desired colour and finish to the product. Iron oxides (CI 77491, CI77492, CI 77499) alongside Titanium dioxide (CI 77891) are often used.
Aqua – 10% Although labelled as an anhydrous formulation, small amounts of water may be included for specific purposes, such as activating certain ingredients or adjusting consistency.
Alcohol – 15%
Ethanol can be used as a solvent and helps to maintain the product’s lightweight feel and quick drying time.
Bulking Agents – 15%
These materials add volume and improve the texture. Talc is a typical example.
Thickeners – 10%
Thickeners give the product its consistency and stability. Examples include stearalkonium hectorite and propylene carbonate.
UV Filters – 10%
These protect the skin from UV radiation. Common examples include titanium dioxide (nano) or zinc oxide.
Emulsifying Agents – 6%
These help to mix oil-based ingredients with any water content, ensuring a smooth and uniform texture. PEG and PPG derivatives are common examples.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These can include plant extracts, vitamins, and antioxidants, which provide added skin benefits like nourishment and moisture retention.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 2%
These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth, even in an anhydrous environment. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Face powder
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Mineral bulking agents | 95 |
Other bulking agents | 50 |
Binding agents | 45 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 45 |
Colourants, colour additives | 30 |
Anticaking agents | 15 |
UV Filters | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 3 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1.5 |
Parfum | 1.5 |
Ingredient types and functions in face powder preparations
Mineral Bulking Agents – 95%
These are the primary ingredients in face powders, providing the bulk, texture, and coverage. Common examples include talc, mica, kaolin, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and magnesium/calcium carbonate.
Other Bulking Agents – 50%
These agents add volume and improve the texture and feel of the powder. Examples include starch, nylon powder, and polyethylene powder.
Binding Agents – 45%
These help to hold the powder particles together, ensuring even application and adherence to the skin. Examples include vegetable and mineral oils, as well as fatty acid esters.
Silicones – 45%
Silicones improve the smoothness, spreadability, and wear of the powder. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 30%
These provide the desired shade and finish, including opacifying agents for coverage and pearlescent agents for a subtle sheen.
Anticaking Agents – 15%
These prevent clumping, ensuring the powder remains free-flowing and easy to apply. Examples include zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium laurate.
UV Filters – 10%
These protect the skin from UV radiation. Examples might include titanium dioxide (nano) or zinc oxide, which can also act as mineral bulking agents.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These include ingredients like antioxidants, humectants, and vitamins, which offer added skin benefits such as hydration and provide substantiation for common claims.
Surfactants – 3% – These help to disperse ingredients evenly and can also act as emulsifiers. Polysorbates are common examples.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1.5%
These ensure the product remains safe for use by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Parfum -1.5%
Fragrance added to provide a pleasant scent to the powder.
Lipstick, glosser & balm
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils, waxes and fats | 90 |
Film forming polymers | 80 |
Emollients | 50 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 50 |
Liquid paraffin and isoparaffin | 40 |
Aqua | 40 |
Colourants, colour additives | 30 |
Bulking agents | 20 |
Photoprotective products containing UV filters | 10 |
Thickeners | 10 |
Emulsifying agents | 5 |
Ethanol, isopropanol (alcohol, alcohol denat., isopropyl alcohol) | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Parfum | 2 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Flavouring agents | 1 |
Oral care-sweetening agents | 0.02 |
Ingredient types and functions in Lipstick, glosser & balm preparations
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 90%
These form the base of the formulation, giving structure, moisture, and smooth application. Examples include vegetable oils (like castor oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols like cetyl alcohol.
Film-Forming Polymers – 80%
These help create a long-lasting, flexible film on the lips, enhancing wear and glossiness. Examples include stearalkonium hectorite and polybutene.
Emollients (up to 50%): Emollients soften and hydrate the lips, improving the texture and feel of the product. Common examples include glycerin and propylene glycol.
Silicones – 50%
Silicones enhance the smoothness, spreadability, and shine of the product. Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone are typical examples.
Liquid Paraffin and Isoparaffin – 40%
These hydrocarbons help with the smooth application and emollient properties. Examples include isododecane and isohexadecane.
Aqua (Water) – 40%
Water may be included to help dissolve or disperse certain ingredients, contributing to the product’s texture and sensorial characteristics.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 30%
These provide the desired colour and finish, with options like opacifying agents (titanium dioxide) for coverage and pearlescent agents (mica) for shimmer.
Bulking Agents – 20%
These add volume and can improve the texture. Examples include talc, silica, and nylon powder.
Photoprotective Products Containing UV Filters – 10%
UV filters protect the lips from sun damage. Common examples are titanium dioxide (nano) and zinc oxide.
Thickeners – 10%
Thickeners give the product its consistency and help stabilise the formulation. Examples include carbomers and hydroxyethylcellulose.
Emulsifying Agents – 5%
These help mix oil and water-based ingredients, ensuring a smooth and uniform product. Glyceryl stearate is an example.
Ethanol, Isopropanol – 5%
These alcohols can act as solvents, helping to dissolve other ingredients, and provide a quick-drying finish.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These can include vitamins, proteins, and antioxidants to provide extra care and benefits to the lips, these will be the claim ingredients.
Parfum – 2%
Fragrance is added to give the product a pleasant scent.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1%
These ensure the product remains safe by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Flavouring Agents – 1%
Added to provide a pleasant taste, enhancing the user experience.
Oral Care-Sweetening Agents – 0.02%
These are added for sweetness without impacting the formula’s stability. Saccharin is a common example.
Lip pencil
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils, waxes and fats | 90 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 50 |
Colourants, colour additives | 50 |
Liquid paraffin and isoparaffin | 40 |
Bulking agents | 30 |
Polymers | 20 |
Thickeners | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Emulsifying agents | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Parfum | 0.5 |
Ingredient types and functions in lip liner preparations
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 90%
These form the base of the lip pencil, giving it structure, smooth application, and moisture. Examples include vegetable oils (like castor oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols such as cetyl alcohol.
Silicones – 50%
Silicones enhance the smoothness, spreadability, and wear of the lip pencil. Common examples are cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 50%
These provide the desired colour and finish, including opacifying agents for coverage and pearlescent agents for a shimmery effect.
Liquid Paraffin and Isoparaffin – 40%
These hydrocarbons help with the smooth application and emollient properties. Examples include isododecane and isohexadecane.
Bulking Agents – 30%
These add volume and improve the texture and stability of the lip pencil. Talc and silica are typical examples.
Polymers – 20%
Polymers provide flexibility, durability, and help in film formation. Examples include nylon and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP).
Thickeners – 10%
Thickeners give the lip pencil its solid consistency and ensure the stability of the formulation. Stearalkonium hectorite is a common example.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These can include UV filters for sun protection, vitamins, and antioxidants to provide added care and protection for the lips – because lip liners are only used on a minimal surface of the skin, additional ingredients are not very common.
Emulsifying Agents – 5%
These help to mix oil and water-based ingredients, ensuring a uniform and stable product. Non-ionic emulsifiers like polysorbate 60 and PEG-6 sorbitan stearate are examples.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials -n1%
These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Parfum – 0.5%
Fragrance added to provide a pleasant scent to the lip pencil.
Eyeshadow (powder)
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Colourants, colour additives | 80 |
Binding agents, oils, waxes and fats | 20 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 20 |
Anticaking agents | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Parfum | 1 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Bulking agents | to 100 |
Ingredient types and functions in eyeshadow preparations
Colourants/Colour Additives – 80%
These are the primary ingredients that provide the eyeshadow with its colour and finish. Examples include iron oxides (CI 77491, C9 77492, CI 77492) titanium dioxide (CI 77891).
Binding Agents, Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 20%
These ingredients help bind the powder together, ensuring it adheres well to the skin and applies smoothly. Examples include vegetable oils (like jojoba oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols such as cetyl alcohol.
Silicones – 20%
Silicones improve the texture, spreadability, and smoothness of the eyeshadow. They also help with long wear and provide a silky feel. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone.
Anticaking Agents – 10%
These prevent the eyeshadow from clumping, ensuring it remains smooth and easy to apply. Examples include zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, and zinc/magnesium laurate.
Additional Ingredients (up to 5%)**: These can include humectants for moisture retention, vitamins for skin benefits and antioxidants. These are rare in eyeshadows due to the small surface they cover.
Parfum – 1%
Fragrance is added to provide a pleasant scent to the product, although it’s used sparingly in eyeshadow due to the sensitive area of application. These are more common in children’s eyeshadow products – which some people have concerns about.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1%
These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth. Common examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Bulking Agents – 100%
These add volume and improve the texture and consistency of the eyeshadow. Examples include talc, silica, starch, nylon powder, and polyethylene powder.
Eyeshadow (cream, stick)
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils and waxes | 70 |
Colourants, colour additives | 50 |
Bulking agents | 20 |
Emulsifying agents | 10 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 10 |
Thickeners | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Parfum | 1 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient types and functions in eyeshadow sticks/cream preparations
Oils and Waxes – 70%
These form the base of the eyeshadow stick, providing structure, smooth application, and emollience. Examples include vegetable oils (like jojoba oil) and mineral oils.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 50%
These provide the eyeshadow with its colour and finish. Opacifying agents, like titanium dioxide, create a matte effect, while pearlescent agents, like mica, add shimmer.
Bulking Agents – 20%
These add volume and improve the texture, making the stick smooth and easy to apply. Examples include talc, silica, and nylon powder.
Emulsifying Agents – 10%
These help to mix oil and water-based ingredients, ensuring a smooth and uniform consistency. Examples include PEG stearate and polysorbate.
Silicones – 10%
Silicones enhance the product’s smoothness, spreadability, and wearability. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone.
Thickeners – 5%
Thickeners provide consistency and stability to the stick. An example is carbomer, which helps maintain the stick’s solid form.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These can include vitamins, plant extracts, UV filters, and antioxidants, which offer added benefits like skin nourishment and protection.
Parfum – 1%
A small amount of fragrance may be added to impart a pleasant scent to the product. This is not very common in eyeshadow formulations, but more common than in powder eyeshadows.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1%
These ensure the product remains safe by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Aqua – to 100%
Water is added as a solvent or to adjust the consistency of the formulation, ensuring it applies smoothly. This is the continuous phase if the formulation is water based.
Eye Pencil
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils, waxes and fats | 70 |
Liquid paraffin and isoparaffin | 50 |
Colourants, colour additives | 50 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 50 |
Bulking agents | 30 |
Polymers, resins | 20 |
Anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 5 |
UV filters | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1 |
Parfum | 0.3 |
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 70%
These form the base of the eye pencil, giving it structure, smoothness, and emollient properties. Examples include vegetable oils (like castor oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols like cetyl alcohol.
Liquid Paraffin and Isoparaffin – 50%
These hydrocarbons help with the smooth application and contribute to the pencil’s consistency. Examples include isododecane and isohexadecane.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 50%
These provide the pencil with its colour and finish. Examples include opacifying agents like titanium dioxide for opacity and pearlescent agents like mica for shimmer.
Silicones – 50%
Silicones improve the texture, spreadability, and wear of the product. Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone are common examples.
Bulking Agents – 30%
These add volume and improve the texture, making the pencil easier to apply. Talc is a typical example.
Polymers/Resins – 20%
Polymers provide flexibility, film formation, and long-lasting wear. Nylon is a common example used in eye pencils.
Surfactants – 5%
These help to disperse the pigments evenly and can act as emulsifiers. Examples include polysorbate 60 and PEG-6 sorbitan stearate.
UV Filters – 5%
These protect the delicate skin around the eyes from UV radiation. Common examples might include titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which can also act as bulking agents.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These can include vitamins, plant extracts, and antioxidants to provide added skin benefits and protection.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 1%
These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Parfum – 0.3%
A small amount of fragrance is added to give the product a pleasant scent, though it’s used minimally in eye products to reduce the risk of irritation.
Mascara
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Film forming polymers | 45 |
Oils, waxes and fats | 30 |
Colourants, colour additives | 25 |
Emulsifying agents | 20 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 20 |
Humectants | 15 |
Thickeners | 15 |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 11 |
Fibres | 10 |
Emollients | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2.5 |
Parfum | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient types and functions in eye pencil preparations
Film-Forming Polymers – 45%
These create a flexible film that adheres to the lashes, helping to define and lengthen them while also improving the mascara’s longevity. Examples include ammonium acrylates copolymer, cellulose derivatives, and acetyl triethyl citrate.
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 30%
These provide structure, smooth application, and moisture to the lashes. They also contribute to the product’s texture and consistency. Examples include vegetable oils (like jojoba oil), mineral oils, and long-chain alcohols like cetyl alcohol.
Colourants/Colour Additives – 25%
These give the mascara its colour and finish. Opacifying agents like iron oxides provide deep pigmentation, while pearlescent agents can add a subtle sheen.
Emulsifying Agents – 20%
These help blend oil and water-based ingredients to create a uniform, stable product. An example is TEA-stearate (triethanolamine stearate).
Silicones – 20%
Silicones enhance the smoothness, spreadability, and durability of the mascara. Examples include cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone.
Humectants – 15%
Humectants help retain moisture in the product, preventing it from drying out. Examples include propylene glycol and glycerin.
Thickeners – 15%
Thickeners give the mascara its consistency, ensuring it coats the lashes evenly without clumping. For example, ingredients like magnesium silicate, aluminum silicate, and PEG derivatives are commonly used as thickeners.
Ethanol – 11%
Ethanol acts as a solvent, helping to dissolve other ingredients and contributing to a quick-drying formula.
Fibers – 10%
These fibers adhere to the lashes to add length and volume. Examples include cellulose and nylon fibers.
Emollients – 5%
Emollients help to condition the lashes, making them feel soft and flexible. An example is isopropyl myristate.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These may include vitamins, plant extracts, or other ingredients that offer extra benefits, like conditioning or protecting the lashes.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 2.5%
These ensure the product remains safe to use by preventing microbial growth. Examples include parabens and phenoxyethanol.
Parfum – 1%
A small amount of fragrance is added to give the product a pleasant scent, this is typically at very low concentrations and the fragrance must be approved for use around the eye area.
Aqua – to 100%
Water is used as a solvent and base for the mascara, helping to mix and dissolve other ingredients.
Regulation of Colour Cosmetic Products
Colourants in colour cosmetic products in the EU & UK
In the European Union (EU), cosmetics are regulated by the cosmetic regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, which has an annex (Annex IV), which provides a list of permitted colourants. If a colourant is listed in the annex, it can be used in cosmetics (subject to occasional limitations). The same applies for the United Kingdom (UK), but the regulation is called The Product Safety and Metrology etc. (Amendment etc). (EU Exit) Regulations 2019.
Colourants in colour cosmetic products in Canada
In Canada, cosmetic ingredients restrictions and prohibitions are managed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. Specifically, this hotlist is made up of two lists: the prohibited ingredients list and the restricted ingredients list. Importantly, these lists apply to all cosmetic ingredients, not just colourants.
Colourants in colour cosmetic products in the USA
In the United States of America, colourants are divided into colourants subject to batch certification and colourants exempt from batch certification. ‘Batch certification’ means ensuring that each batch of colourant used conforms to the standards laid out by the regulation 21 CFR Part 73 Subpart C—Cosmetics, these include the limits for impurities such as mercury, lead and arsenic. Each colourant has its own restrictions the batch is required to comply with. Colourants are then also further divided into being permitted for the eye area, general use or external use.
Colourants Exempt from Batch Certification
Colour Additives Exempt from Certification and Permitted for Use in Cosmetics | Eye Area | General | External | |
Aluminum Powder | CI 77000 | Yes | No | Yes |
Bismuth Oxychloride | CI 77163 | Yes | Yes | No |
Chromium Oxide Greens | CI 77288 | Yes | No | Yes |
Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide | CI 77510 | Yes | No | Yes |
Iron Oxides | CI 77491/ CI 77492 / CI 77499 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Manganese Violet | CI 77742 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Mica | N/A | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Titanium Dioxide | CI 77891 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Ultramarines | CI 77007 | Yes | No | Yes |
Zinc Oxide | CI 77947 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
Colourants Subject to batch certification
Colour Additives Subject to Certification and Permitted for Use in Cosmetics | Eye Area | General | External | |
D&C Black No. 2 | CI 77266 | Yes* | Yes* | Yes* |
FD&C Blue No. 1 | CI 42090 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake | CI 42090 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Red No. 4 | CI 14700 | No | No | Yes |
D&C Red No. 6 | CI 15850 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 6 Lake | CI 15850 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 7 | CI 15850 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 7 Lake | CI 15850 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 22 | CI 45380 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 27 | CI 45410 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 27 Lake | CI 45410 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 28 | CI 45410 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 28 Lake | CI 45410 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Red No. 34 | CI 15880 | No | No | Yes |
FD&C Red No. 40 | CI 16035 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake | CI 16035 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Yellow No. 5 | CI 19140 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake | CI 19140 | Yes | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Yellow No. 6 | CI 15985 | No | Yes | Yes |
FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake | CI 15985 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Yellow No. 10 | CI 47005 | No | Yes | Yes |
D&C Yellow No. 10 Lake | CI 47005 | No | Yes | Yes |
Non-permitted pigments for the eye area in the USA
- FD&C Red No. 4
- D&C Red No. 6
- D&C Red No. 6 Lake
- D&C Red No. 7
- D&C Red No. 7 Lake
- D&C Red No. 22
- D&C Red No. 27
- D&C Red No. 27 Lake
- D&C Red No. 28
- D&C Red No. 28 Lake
- D&C Red No. 34
- FD&C Yellow No. 6
- FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake
- D&C Yellow No. 10
- D&C Yellow No. 10 Lake
Pressed Pigment Palettes
The issue with having so many ‘lists’ of prohibited and restricted colourants, is that some colourants are permitted in some regions, but restricted/prohibited in others. The incongruence between the US & EU regulation means that some colourants are permitted in the eye area in the EU, but not in the USA. The pool of colourants is somewhat slim when trying to create new and interesting shades of eyeshadows, so non-eye-area permitted pigments are often used. This is compliant within the realms of the EU regulation, however, not compliant if sold in the USA. Companies choose to market their colour cosmetic products as ‘pressed pigment palettes’ in order to get around the eye-area pigment issue.
Claims of Colour Cosmetic Products
Permitted claims
Water Resistant Mascara
Waterproof claims in colour cosmetic products can be substantiated through adequate laboratory testing. For instance, an ISO standard has been developed for SPF products to determine water resistance: ISO 16217:2020. There is no direct ISO standard for general products or mascaras, so the protocol of this ISO standard is a good guidance.
It’s important to take into account customer expectations regarding claims. Water resistant mascaras are likely purchased with the hopes that the mascara won’t run or smudge after crying, be subject to adverse weather or ad-hoc events involving water. It is recommended to run consumer perception studies involving related scenarios to gauge consumer’s feedback before placing water resistant mascaras on the market.
As long as enough substantiation is collated for these types of claims, they can be used.
All Nighter Setting Spray
Colour cosmetic products are highly trend-driven which is reflected in their claims. Rather than stating “12 hour hold”, a claim may say “holds makeup in place all night”. An example of a very colloquial claim is “sex-proof mascara”. These are often referred to as “fluffy claims” in industry, but they are claims nonetheless.
The substantiation for these claims should have some scientific relevance, at least with the reasoning for what the ingredients and their inclusion levels aim to do, but oftentimes consumer perception studies are the best form of substantiation, especially when no clear-cut method has been established.
With Hyaluronic Acid for Hydration
Skincare-meet-makeup claims have become increasingly popular over the decades. Consumers expect their foundations to do more than just cover the skin. Skincare ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate) have been added to colour cosmetics to up their market value and add a unique selling point (USP).
Regulators often use literature review data to substantiate these relatively low-risk claims. However, it’s important not to make the claims too bold, since consumers typically apply only a thin layer of foundation, which usually isn’t enough to deliver many skincare benefits. “Contains” claims, such as “contains niacinamide,” are very popular because they don’t promise specific skincare benefits but still appeal to consumers.
Non-comedogenic/Suitable for Acne Prone Skin
Non-comedogenic claims require laboratory testing. Typically, a study with a minimum of 30 participants with comedogenic skin is used. Additionally, images of pores are often taken before and after the study and compared. However, non-comedogenic studies are very high risk, as there is no certainty that people’s skin won’t break out. Therefore, the studies must be reviewed by a dermatologist or a sufficiently qualified person.
