In this article about cleansing products in cosmetic science you will learn about how cleansers work, the different product types and the ingredients which cleanse the skin. You will also learn about the formulation of these products, their regulation and claims.
How Cleansing Products Work
Surfactants, or surface-active agents, are key cleansing ingredients in cosmetic products like cleansers, shampoos, and soaps. They work by lowering the surface tension between water and oils, allowing them to mix and effectively remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin.
Structure of Surfactants
Surfactants have a unique molecular structure with two main parts: a hydrophilic (water-loving) head and a hydrophobic (oil-loving) tail. This dual nature allows them to interact with both water and oil.
Formation of Micelles
When surfactants are added to water and come into contact with oils and impurities on the skin, their hydrophobic tails attach to the oil and dirt, while their hydrophilic heads remain in the water. This action forms spherical structures called micelles, with the tails trapping the oils inside and the heads facing outward towards the water.
Micelles are tiny spherical structures formed when surfactants are dissolved in water at concentrations above their critical micelle concentration (CMC). These structures are central to how cleansing products work, as they trap and remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. Depending on the surfactant composition and conditions, micelles can form in different structures that affect their cleansing properties. Here’s an overview of the different types of micelle formation commonly seen in skin cleansing products.
- Spherical Micelles are the most versatile and commonly used, offering effective oil and dirt removal.
- Inverse Micelles work in oil-based environments, ideal for oil cleansers and makeup removers.
- Rod-Shaped Micelles provide structural stability and are used in high-foaming cleansers.
- Lamellar Micelles are gentle and mimic skin structures, suitable for sensitive skin cleansers.
- Mixed Micelles combine multiple surfactant types to optimise cleansing efficacy and skin mildness.
- Polymeric Micelles offer advanced cleansing with enhanced stability and controlled release properties.
Spherical Micelles
Spherical micelles are the most common type of micelles found in skin cleansing products. In these structures, the hydrophobic (water-repelling) tails of surfactants face inward, forming a core, while the hydrophilic (water-attracting) heads face outward, interacting with water.
Spherical micelles effectively trap and solubilize oils, dirt, and makeup within their hydrophobic core, allowing these impurities to be rinsed away during cleansing. Found in most micellar waters, facial cleansers, and body washes due to their excellent ability to remove impurities without stripping the skin of moisture.
Inverse (Reverse) Micelles
Inverse micelles are the opposite of spherical micelles; their hydrophilic heads are oriented inward, while their hydrophobic tails face outward. This type of micelle forms in non-aqueous or low-water environments, such as in oil-based cleansers.
Inverse micelles are used in formulations designed to dissolve oil-based impurities, such as heavy makeup or sebum, without the use of water. They are effective in oil cleansers, which require emulsification with water to rinse off. Commonly found in oil cleansers and some water-free makeup removers, where their structure helps dissolve oil-soluble impurities.
Rod-Shaped (Cylindrical) Micelles
Rod-shaped micelles form when surfactant concentrations are higher, and the packing of surfactant molecules becomes more ordered. These micelles are elongated, with a cylindrical shape rather than a spherical one.
Rod-shaped micelles can provide a more structured and stable foam, enhancing the cleansing process. They have a higher surface area for interacting with impurities, making them useful in high-foaming formulations. Typically found in high-foaming cleansing products like shampoos and body washes, where increased surfactant concentration helps stabilise foam and improve the spreadability of the product on the skin.
Lamellar Micelles (Bilayers)
Lamellar micelles resemble thin, layered structures similar to a sandwich, with alternating layers of hydrophobic and hydrophilic components. This arrangement can mimic the structure of cell membranes.
Lamellar micelles provide a gentler cleansing action as they are less likely to disrupt the skin’s natural barrier. They help maintain the skin’s moisture balance while cleansing. Often found in cream cleansers and gentle facial washes designed for sensitive skin, these micelles offer a balance between effective cleansing and maintaining skin hydration.
Mixed Micelles
Mixed micelles form when different types of surfactants (e.g., anionic and non-ionic) are combined, leading to a micelle structure with properties of both types of surfactants. This combination can adjust the micelle’s stability, size, and cleansing ability.
Mixed micelles enhance the versatility of cleansing products, allowing for improved mildness, better solubilization of various impurities, and a balanced skin feel after use. Common in multi-functional cleansing products such as micellar waters, where a gentle yet effective cleansing action is required.
Polymeric Micelles
Polymeric micelles are formed when surfactants or block copolymers with high molecular weight organise into micelle-like structures. They are larger and more stable compared to traditional surfactant micelles.
Due to their size and stability, polymeric micelles can provide sustained-release cleansing and moisturising effects, offering a prolonged and gentler interaction with the skin. Often used in advanced skincare formulations like deep-cleansing face masks or products targeting sensitive or compromised skin, where controlled cleansing is essential.
Lifting and Emulsifying Dirt
The formation of micelles emulsifies (suspends) the oil, dirt, and impurities in the water, effectively lifting them off the skin’s surface. This process breaks down the bonds between the impurities and the skin, making them easier to rinse away. When the cleanser is rinsed off, the water carries away the micelles, along with the trapped dirt, oil, and makeup, leaving the skin clean.
Types of Cleansing Products
Foaming Cleanser
Foaming cleansers are lightweight facial cleansers that produce a rich lather when mixed with water. They are designed to deeply cleanse the skin by removing dirt, oil, and makeup.
Foaming cleansers gained popularity in the late 20th century with the development of mild surfactants that could effectively cleanse without overly stripping the skin. Today, they are formulated to suit various skin types, including oily and combination skin, and are a staple in skincare routines.
Oil Cleanser
Oil cleansers use oils to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and excess sebum on the skin. They work on the principle of “like dissolves like,” effectively breaking down oil-based impurities without drying out the skin.
Although oil cleansing has roots in ancient beauty rituals, the modern version became popular in East Asia, particularly in Korea and Japan, before gaining global popularity in the 21st century. They are often used as the first step in double cleansing routines.
Cream Cleanser
Cream cleansers are rich, emollient products that cleanse while moisturising the skin. They have a creamy texture and are designed to gently cleanse without stripping the skin’s natural oils, making them ideal for dry and sensitive skin.
Cream cleansers have been around since the early 20th century as part of cold creams, which were used for makeup removal and facial cleansing. They evolved into modern formulations that provide a balance of cleansing and moisturising.
Liquid Soap
Liquid soaps are versatile, water-based cleansers used for hands and body. They contain surfactants that provide lather and effective cleansing.
Liquid soap was first patented in the 19th century but gained mainstream popularity in the late 20th century with the rise of pump dispensers that made them more convenient and hygienic than bar soap. They are now widely used in both personal care and household cleaning.
Bath & Shower Gel
Bath and shower gels are body cleansers that come in gel form and are designed to cleanse the skin while providing a refreshing feel. They often contain moisturising agents, fragrances, and sometimes exfoliants.
Shower gels emerged in the 1970s as an alternative to traditional bar soaps, offering a modern, convenient, and often more luxurious cleansing experience. Over time, they have been formulated with added benefits like hydrating, exfoliating, and soothing properties.
Solid Soap
Solid soaps, or bar soaps, are made through the saponification of fats and oils with an alkali, creating a solid cleanser. They are used for cleansing the body, face, and hands.
Solid soap has ancient origins, dating back to 2800 B.C. in Babylon. It became a widespread personal care item in mediaeval Europe, and by the 19th century, mass production made it a household staple. Though once replaced by liquid alternatives, traditional bar soaps are experiencing a resurgence due to their eco-friendly packaging and natural formulations.
Ingredients in Cleansing Products
Surfactants, or surface-active agents, are key ingredients in cleansing products due to their ability to lower the surface tension between substances, allowing oil, dirt, and impurities to be removed from the skin. Different types of surfactants have varying cleansing mechanisms and are used in cosmetics based on their unique properties.
Anionic Surfactants
Examples: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate.
Anionic surfactants have a negatively charged hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail. This charge allows them to effectively lift and emulsify dirt, oils, and other impurities from the skin. They are strong cleansers with high foaming properties, making them effective in removing excess sebum and makeup. Commonly used in foaming cleansers, shampoos, and body washes due to their powerful cleansing action. However, they can be drying on sensitive skin if not properly balanced with milder ingredients.
Cationic Surfactants
Examples: Cetrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-7.
Cationic surfactants have a positively charged hydrophilic head, which makes them less effective as primary cleansers but excellent at conditioning the skin and hair. They help reduce static and improve texture, which is why they are often used in hair conditioners.
Often used as secondary surfactants in skin cleansers to add mild conditioning properties. They help balance the drying effects of stronger surfactants.
Non-Ionic Surfactants
Examples: Decyl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Polysorbate 20, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
Non-ionic surfactants have no charge, making them milder and less irritating compared to anionic surfactants. They work by gently breaking down oils and impurities on the skin. They produce less foam but are excellent at cleansing without stripping the skin of its natural moisture. Ideal for sensitive skin, non-ionic surfactants are commonly used in gentle facial cleansers, baby shampoos, and other mild cleansing products.
Amphoteric Surfactants
Examples: Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Lauriminodipropionate.
Amphoteric surfactants can carry a positive or negative charge depending on the pH of the environment, making them versatile and mild cleansers. They help stabilise foams and enhance the performance of other surfactants, providing effective yet gentle cleansing. Commonly found in facial cleansers, body washes, and shampoos for their ability to boost foam and reduce irritation from harsher surfactants.
Zwitterionic Surfactants
Examples: Betaines like Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Lauryl Dimethylamine Oxide.
These surfactants have both positive and negative charges but remain overall neutral. They provide excellent foam stabilisation and mild cleansing action. Zwitterionic surfactants are compatible with other surfactant types and help improve the mildness of formulations.
Often included in cleansers to enhance foam and provide a softer, more balanced cleansing experience.
Soap-Based Surfactants
Examples: Sodium Stearate, Potassium Oleate.
Soaps are traditional surfactants formed through the saponification of fats and alkali. They work by emulsifying oils and trapping dirt so it can be rinsed away. However, they have a high pH, which can be harsh and drying to the skin. Used in traditional bar soaps and some liquid cleansers, often paired with milder surfactants or conditioning agents to reduce their harshness.
Formulation of Cleansing Products
Foaming Cleanser
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Anionic surfactants | 40 |
Oils, waxes and fats | 30 |
Amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 20 |
Humectants | 20 |
Abrasives | 10 |
Silicones including volatile silicones | 5 |
Thickeners | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Parfum | 3 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2 |
Colourants | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In Foaming Cleansers
Anionic Surfactants – 40%
Anionic surfactants are the primary cleansing agents responsible for the foaming and lathering properties of the cleanser. They help remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. Examples: Sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate.
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 30%
These ingredients provide emollient properties, helping to soften the skin and counteract the drying effects of surfactants. They can also aid in dissolving makeup and excess sebum. Examples: Vegetable oils (such as olive or sunflower oil), mineral oil, long-chain alcohols like cetyl alcohol.
Amphoteric Surfactants and Non-Ionic Surfactants – 20%
These surfactants are milder and help to balance the harshness of anionic surfactants, improving the skin compatibility of the cleanser while enhancing foam quality. Examples: Cocamidopropyl betaine (amphoteric), ethoxylated sorbitan esters (non-ionic).
Humectants – 20%
Humectants attract and retain moisture in the skin, preventing dryness after cleansing. They help keep the skin hydrated and smooth. Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol.
Abrasives – 10%
Abrasives provide a physical exfoliating effect, helping to remove dead skin cells and smooth the skin’s surface. Examples: Polyethylene beads (synthetic), crushed walnuts (natural).
Silicones – 5%
Silicones improve the skin feel and spreadability of the cleanser, providing a silky texture. Volatile silicones evaporate quickly, leaving a smooth, non-greasy finish.Examples: Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone.
Thickeners – 5%
Thickeners increase the viscosity of the cleanser, giving it a desirable consistency that enhances application and stability. Examples: Hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These ingredients can offer added benefits such as antioxidants, soothing properties, or skin nourishment. Examples: Plant extracts (like chamomile or green tea), vitamins (such as vitamin E).
Parfum – 3%
Fragrance is added to enhance the sensory experience of the cleansing products, giving it a pleasant scent. Examples: Synthetic fragrances, essential oils.
Preservatives/Antimicrobials – 2%
Preservatives prevent microbial growth, ensuring the product remains safe and effective throughout its shelf life. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens, ethylhexylglycerin.
Colourants – 1%
Colourants give the cleanser an appealing appearance and can enhance the product’s overall aesthetics. Examples: FD&C dyes, iron oxides.
Aqua – To 100%
Water is the primary solvent in the formulation, dissolving other ingredients and facilitating the product’s consistency and functionality. Essential for creating the desired texture and spreadability of the cleanser.
Oil Cleanser
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Silicones | 50 |
Humectants | 20 |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 10 |
Emulsifying agents, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 10 |
Thickeners | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1.5 |
Parfum | 1 |
Colourants | 1 |
Oils | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In oil Cleansers
Silicones – 50%
Silicones enhance the spreadability and texture of the cleanser, providing a silky feel without leaving a greasy residue. Volatile silicones evaporate quickly, helping to remove makeup without weighing down the skin. Examples: Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone.
Humectants – 20%
Humectants help attract and retain moisture in the skin, preventing dryness after cleansing and maintaining skin hydration. Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol.
Ethanol – 10%
Ethanol acts as a solvent and helps with the cleansing process by breaking down oils and makeup. It also provides a refreshing, quick-drying effect. Examples: Alcohol, alcohol denat.
Emulsifying Agents, Anionic Surfactants, Amphoteric Surfactants, Non-Ionic Surfactants – 10%
These surfactants and emulsifiers help blend water and oil, allowing the cleanser to emulsify when mixed with water. This ensures the oil can be rinsed off easily, leaving the skin clean without a greasy residue. Examples: Steareth-2, steareth-4.
Additional Ingredients – 10%
These ingredients provide added benefits such as antioxidant protection, soothing, or nourishing properties. Examples: Antioxidants (like vitamin E), plant extracts (such as chamomile).
Thickeners – 5%
Thickeners adjust the viscosity of the cleanser, giving it a desirable consistency that enhances application and stability. Examples: Dextrin palmitate.
Preservatives, Antimicrobials – 1.5%
Preservatives prevent microbial growth, ensuring the product remains safe and effective throughout its shelf life. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens.
Parfum- 1%
Fragrance is added to enhance the sensory experience of the cleansing product, providing a pleasant scent. Examples: Synthetic fragrances, essential oils.
Colourants – 1%
Colourants give the product an appealing look, enhancing its aesthetics. Examples: Yellow 5 lake, red 28, iron oxides.
Oils – To 100%
Description: Oils form the main base of the cleanser, helping to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and sebum without stripping the skin’s natural oils. They provide gentle cleansing and hydration. Examples: Vegetable oil (like sunflower or jojoba oil), mineral oil.
Cream Cleanser
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils,waxes and fats | 95 |
Humectants | 25 |
Anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 25 |
Ethanol (alcohol, alcohol denat.) | 25 |
Silicones | 20 |
Thickeners | 12 |
Bulking agents | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 10 |
Cationic polymers | 5 |
Parfum | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2 |
Colourants | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In cream Cleansers
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 95%
These ingredients form the base of the cleanser, providing emollient properties that help to dissolve makeup and dirt while moisturising the skin. They offer a rich texture that leaves the skin feeling soft. Examples: Vegetable oils (like sunflower oil), mineral oils, long-chain alcohols (like cetyl alcohol).
Humectants – 25%
Humectants help to retain moisture in the skin, ensuring that it stays hydrated and feels smooth after cleansing. Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol, PEG (Polyethylene Glycol).
Anionic, Amphoteric, and Non-Ionic Surfactants – 25%
These surfactants provide the cleansing action by helping to lift and remove dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. They also contribute to the foaming and lathering properties of the cleanser. Examples: Sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium laureth sulfate.
Ethanol – 25%
Ethanol serves as a solvent, enhancing the cleansing properties of the product by breaking down oils and residues. It also imparts a refreshing, quick-drying feel. Examples: Alcohol, alcohol denat.
Silicones, Including Volatile Silicones (up to 20%)**
Silicones improve the spreadability and texture of the cleanser, providing a silky feel. Volatile silicones evaporate quickly, helping cleansing products rinse off easily without residue. Examples: Cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone.
Thickeners – 12%
Thickeners adjust the viscosity of the cleanser, giving it a creamy consistency that enhances application and stability.
Examples**: Carbomer, xanthan gum.
Bulking Agents – 10%
Bulking agents add volume and adjust texture, contributing to a pleasant sensory feel during application. Examples: Talc, silica, zinc oxide, nylon powder.
Additional Ingredients – 10%
These ingredients offer added benefits like antioxidant protection, soothing properties, or additional moisturization. Examples: Vitamins (like vitamin E), antioxidants, plant extracts (like chamomile, cucumber extract, rosehip oil).
Cationic Polymers – 5%
Cationic polymers help to condition the skin, providing a soft, silky feel after cleansing. They also improve the overall texture of the product. Examples: Polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-24.
Parfum – 5%
Fragrance is added to enhance the sensory experience, giving the cleanser a pleasant scent. Examples: Synthetic fragrances, essential oils.
Preservatives, Antimicrobials – 2%
These ingredients prevent the growth of harmful microorganisms, ensuring the product remains safe and effective throughout its shelf life. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens.
Colourants – 1%
Colourants give the cleanser a visually appealing look, enhancing its aesthetics. Examples: Yellow 10 lake, blue 1 lake, iron oxides.
Aqua – To 100%
Water acts as the solvent and base of the formulation, dissolving other ingredients and contributing to the desired consistency of the cream cleanser.
Liquid Soap
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Anionic, amphoteric surfactants | 40 |
Non-ionic surfactants | 40 |
Soaps (sodium, potassium or triethanolamine) | 20 |
Emollients | 20 |
Humectants | 20 |
Thickeners | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Pearlescent agents | 5 |
Skin conditioning agents | 5 |
Parfum | 5 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2 |
Colourants | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In liquid soaps
Anionic and Amphoteric Surfactants – 40%
These surfactants are responsible for the primary cleansing action, creating foam and effectively removing dirt, oil, and impurities from the skin. Anionic surfactants provide strong cleansing, while amphoteric surfactants help balance the formulation and reduce irritation. Examples: Laureth sulfate (anionic), betaines (amphoteric).
Non-Ionic Surfactants – 40%
Non-ionic surfactants help stabilise the formulation, enhance cleansing, and improve the product’s mildness, making it gentler on the skin. Examples: Glucose derivatives such as decyl glucoside.
Soaps – 20%
Soaps, derived from sodium, potassium, or triethanolamine, act as traditional cleansing agents that emulsify oils and help remove dirt from the skin. Examples: Sodium soap, potassium soap, triethanolamine soap.
Emollients – 20%
Emollients help to soften and moisturise the skin, preventing dryness that can result from cleansing. They leave the skin feeling smooth and conditioned. Examples: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl oleate.
Humectants – 20%
Humectants attract moisture to the skin, helping to maintain hydration and leaving the skin feeling soft and supple after washing. Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol.
Thickeners – 5%
Thickeners adjust the viscosity of the liquid soap, providing a desirable texture and ensuring the product dispenses easily. Examples: Sodium chloride, hydroxycellulose derivatives.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These ingredients add extra benefits, such as soothing, antioxidant properties, or UV protection, enhancing the overall functionality of the soap. Examples: Plant extracts, UV filters.
Pearlescent Agents – 5%
Pearlescent agents give the soap a shimmering appearance, enhancing its visual appeal and creating a luxurious look. Examples: Glycol distearate, glycol stearate.
Skin Conditioning Agents – 5%
These agents condition the skin, providing a soft feel and reducing the harshness of surfactants, making the product more suitable for frequent use. Examples: Cationic cellulose, emollients (natural oils).
Parfum – 5%
Fragrance is added to enhance the sensory experience, giving the soap a pleasant and appealing scent. Examples: Synthetic fragrances or essential oils.
Preservatives, Antimicrobials – 2%
Description**: Preservatives prevent microbial growth, ensuring the cleansing products remain safe and effective throughout its shelf life. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens.
Colourants – 1%
Colourants add visual appeal, giving the soap a vibrant or subtle hue that aligns with its branding. Examples: Yellow 5 lake, red 28 lake, iron oxides.
Aqua – to 100%
Water acts as the primary solvent in the formulation, dissolving other ingredients and providing the desired liquid consistency of the soap.
Bath & Shower Gel
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Oils,waxes and fats | 30 |
Humectants | 30 |
Anionic surfactants | 25 |
Non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants | 20 |
Foam boosting agents | 10 |
Emulsifying agents | 10 |
Thickeners | 10 |
Additional ingredients | 10 |
Parfum | 6 |
Cationic polymers | 3 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 1.5 |
Colourants | 1 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In bath and shower gels
Oils, Waxes, and Fats – 30%
These ingredients provide emollient properties, helping to moisturise the skin and improve the feel of the shower gel. They contribute to the formulation’s smoothness and can also enhance the solubility of other ingredients. Examples: Vegetable oils (e.g., sunflower oil), mineral oils, long-chain alcohols (e.g., cetyl alcohol).
Humectants – 30%
Humectants attract and retain moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and preventing dryness after washing. Examples: Glycerin, hexylene glycol, propylene glycol.
Anionic Surfactants – 25%
These are the primary cleansing agents in the shower gel, providing good foaming and lathering properties while effectively removing dirt and oil from the skin. Examples: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium laureth sulfate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
Non-Ionic Surfactants, Amphoteric Surfactants – 20%
These surfactants are gentler on the skin, balancing the formulation and improving mildness while contributing to foam stability and cleansing efficiency. Examples: Betaine derivatives (e.g., cocamidopropyl betaine), glucose derivatives (e.g., decyl glucoside).
Foam Boosting Agents – 10%
Foam boosters enhance the volume and stability of the lather, making the shower gel more luxurious and enjoyable to use. Examples: Ethoxylated long-chain alcohols, alkyl polyglucose.
Emulsifying Agents – 10%
Emulsifiers help blend water and oil-based ingredients, ensuring a stable and consistent product texture. Examples: PEG-6 laurate, glyceryl cocoate.
Thickeners – 10%
Thickeners adjust the viscosity of the shower gel, giving it the desired texture and ensuring it stays on the skin during application. Examples: Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, sodium chloride.
Additional Ingredients – 10%
These ingredients can add extra benefits like conditioning, exfoliating, or visual appeal, enhancing the overall user experience. Examples: Pearlescent agents (e.g., glycol distearate), plant extracts.
Parfum – 6%
Description: Fragrance is added to give the shower gel a pleasant and appealing scent, enhancing the sensory experience of the product. Examples: Synthetic fragrances, essential oils.
Cationic Polymers – 3%
These polymers provide conditioning benefits, leaving the skin feeling soft and smooth after use. Examples: Polyquaternium-7.
Preservatives, Antimicrobials – 1.5%
Preservatives prevent microbial growth, ensuring the product remains safe to use over time. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens, ethylhexylglycerin.
Colourants – 1%
Colourants add visual appeal, giving the shower gel an attractive appearance. Examples: iron oxides, yellow 5, ultramarines, titanium dioxide.
Aqua (to 100%)
Water acts as the primary solvent, dissolving other ingredients and providing the desired liquid consistency of the shower gel.
Solid soap
Ingredient | Maximum concentration (% w/w) |
Soaps (vegetable and tallow base: palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, tallow and their fatty acids) | 85 |
Anionic surfactants | 50 |
Emollients, humectants Examples: glycerin, propylene glycol | 20 |
Amphoteric surfactants, non-ionic surfactants | 5 |
Additional ingredients | 5 |
Skin conditioning agents | 5 |
Parfum | 3 |
Preservatives, antimicrobials | 2 |
Colourants | 2 |
Opacifier | 2 |
Aqua | to 100 |
Ingredient Types And Functions In solid soaps
Soaps – 85%
These are the primary cleansing agents made from saponified vegetable or animal fats, such as palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and tallow. They help remove dirt, oils, and impurities from the skin. Examples: Palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, tallow, and their fatty acids.
Anionic Surfactants – 50%
These surfactants provide additional lather and cleansing power, enhancing the foam and overall cleaning efficiency of the soap. Examples: Sodium laureth sulfate.
Emollients, Humectants – 20%
These ingredients help to retain moisture in the skin, preventing dryness often associated with soap use. They add a moisturising effect, making the soap more gentle on the skin. Examples: Glycerin, propylene glycol.
Amphoteric Surfactants, Non-Ionic Surfactants – 5%
These milder surfactants balance the formulation, reduce irritation potential, and improve the overall feel of the soap. Examples: Betaine derivatives, such as cocamidopropyl betaine.
Additional Ingredients – 5%
These are added for extra benefits, such as enhancing the sensory experience, providing exfoliation, or adding skin benefits. Examples: Plant extracts like aloe vera or chamomile.
Skin Conditioning Agents – 5%
These agents improve the skin’s feel, leaving it soft and conditioned after use. Examples: Polyquaternium-7, jojoba oil, almond oil.
Parfum (up to 3%)
Fragrance is added to give the soap a pleasant scent, enhancing the user experience.
Examples: Synthetic fragrances, essential oils.
Preservatives, Antimicrobials – 2%
Preservatives prevent microbial growth, ensuring the soap remains safe and stable over time. Examples: Phenoxyethanol, parabens.
Colourants – 2%
Colourants add visual appeal to the soap, making it attractive and marketable.
Examples: FD&C dyes, natural colourants.
Opacifier – 2%
Opacifiers provide a more opaque appearance, enhancing the aesthetic of the soap bar. Examples: Titanium dioxide, mica.
Aqua – To 100%
Description: Water acts as the base solvent, helping to blend other ingredients during the soap-making process.
Regulation of Cleansing Products
Soaps in the USA
In the United States, the regulation of soaps by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) depends on how the product is formulated, marketed, and intended to be used. Soaps can fall under different regulatory categories: cosmetics, drugs, or true soap, each with distinct requirements.
True Soap
According to the FDA, “true soap” is a product where the bulk of the non-volatile matter consists primarily of an alkali salt of fatty acids, meaning it is made through the traditional saponification process of combining fats or oils with an alkali (such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide). True soaps do not contain synthetic detergents.
True soaps are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC), not the FDA, if their intended use is solely for cleansing the body. The FDA does not consider these products as drugs or cosmetics, provided they make no claims beyond basic cleaning.
Since true soaps fall under the CPSC, they must comply with labelling requirements related to safety, such as warnings or hazard symbols, but the traditional cosmetic labelling does not apply to true soaps in the USA.
Soap as a Cosmetic
If a soap product contains synthetic detergents, or if it claims to have cosmetic benefits beyond basic cleansing (e.g., moisturising, exfoliating, or beautifying the skin), it is considered a cosmetic.
The FDA regulates these products under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act). While the FDA does not approve cosmetics before they go to market, manufacturers are responsible for ensuring the safety and proper labelling of their products.
Cosmetic soaps must comply with FDA labelling requirements, including ingredient listing, product identity, manufacturer information, and warnings if applicable. Claims should not imply any therapeutic or drug-like effects.
Soap as a Drug
If a soap makes claims that it can treat or prevent diseases (e.g., “antibacterial,” “acne treatment,” or “antifungal”), it is classified as a drug. Examples include soaps marketed to prevent or treat skin conditions like acne, eczema, or bacterial infections.
These products must comply with FDA regulations for over-the-counter (OTC) drugs. They are subject to stringent requirements. The active ingredients and their intended use must conform to a monograph or require a New Drug Application (NDA) if they deviate from the standard. Drug soaps must follow the FDA’s drug labelling requirements, including listing active ingredients, dosage, usage instructions, and safety warnings. Manufacturers must comply with GMP standards to ensure product safety and consistency.
Claims of Cleansing Products
Non-permitted claims
Non-irritant Formula
Skin irritation can be minimised through the use of milder surfactants and an excess of conditioning agents, however, irritation is subjective and some people may be predisposed to irritation through earlier elicitation stage. There is no way of confirming that every user will not be irritated by the product, so it’s better to claim ‘mild cleanse’ rather than promising a health claim.
Recommended for people with eczema
Eczema is characterised by dry, itchy skin and thickened skin lesions. Also known as atopic dermatitis, eczema patients choose products which do not further dry out the skin – opting for a gentler cleanse. Eczema is a skin condition, which cosmetics cannot treat or manage – only prevent. Stating that a cosmetic is recommended or suitable for people with eczema insinuates that the product will be treating/managing the condition, making it a non-cosmetic product. This claim can be rephrased to “suitable for people with sensitive/dry skin” as long as sufficient substantiation is provided.
Permitted claims
Mild Cleanse
A mild cleanser claim is very common in the cosmetics industry and often features as part of the product name/identity. A ‘mild cleanse’ can be substantiated by a formulation review, looking at the surfactant types and their inclusion levels as well as the types and inclusion of conditioning agents. Milder surfactant use (non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants) alongside humectants (glycerin) and emollients (jojoba oil, coconut oil) help provide a mild cleanse. I would recommend performing a sensitivity/irritancy test in a clinical setting as this claim is high/medium risk.
Gentle on the skin
Similarly to the “mild cleanse” claim, a formulation review can be used to substantiate the basis of this claim, but the emphasis of this claim is on the skin, therefore, a clinical or user trial consumer perception study is recommended. The clinical study can be performed in vivo or in vitro.
Kills 99.9% bacteria
Hand washes often have a bacterial count kill claim, we saw a rise in this during the pandemic. Despite this seemingly bold claim, it is allowed for cosmetic products – but the use of this claim also makes it a biocide product, meaning that it must comply with the cosmetic and biocides regulation.
The definition of a biocide product according to the EU Biocides Regulation is:
“any substance or mixture, in the form in which it is supplied to the user, consisting of, containing or generating one or more active substances, with the intention of destroying, deterring, rendering harmless, preventing the action of, or otherwise exerting a controlling effect on, any harmful organism by any means other than mere physical or mechanical action”
To also ensure that a product falls into the cosmetics regulation, it must be presented as a cosmetic or contain cosmetic claims such as “with moisturising aloe vera” or “helps keep hands in good condition”.
